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habits or attire of the people under the rule of William the Conquerer. Under William 11 however, extremes of fashion set in, we are told men began wearing long cloaks, trailing gowns with long sleeves and fantastic- ally pointed shoes, the women effected a tight-laced bodice but similarly wore long gowns with hanging sleeves. The "dalmatic" a wide-sleeved lengthy gown, became the regal costume under Henry I and remained so under several reigns. Under Edward 111 great changes in the mode of dress took place. Amongst the nobles the long robes and tunics gave place to the long hose and "dote-hardie", a close fitting garment reaching to the mid-thigh, and buttoned down the front, with half- sleeves, to display the long sleeves of an under-vest. This was worn by both sexes.

Parti-colored costumes were introduced as early as the reign of Edward 11, but under Richard 11 they became the prevailing fashion. It is interesting to note that with the ascension of Henry V11 a much simpler style of costume became the vogue, yet in Elizabeth's time the characteristic feminine garments were the enormous starched tiers of ruff and frill, imitated by men in the adoption of the "ruff" collar. Elizabethan fashions were pretty constant under the Srewars. Puri- tan influence was directly small, but indirectly may have effected the fashionable taste, the ruff collar gave place to the "Vandyke" of lace, and it was this period that saw the plumed cavalier emerge.

In the reign of Charles 11 "petticoat breeches", worn for some time in France, were a common mode; they were wide, puffed, be-ribboned garments, tapering down to just above the calf of the leg; high-heeled shoes and hat with coronal of feathers are characteristic of the courtier of this period.

Men's somber, dark-colored clothes, which became usual in the nineteenth Century, have been ascribed to the continual mouring worn in Europe during the slaugh- ters of the Napoleonic Wars. It might be appropriate to

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